TRAVEL TO NAMHAE

I wrote this journal the day we left Yangpyeong and headed down to Namhae. It is a lighthearted journal. Travel to Namhae with me. . .

May 12 Entry

As expected, it felt rather peculiar to say goodbye to our temporary “home” at Yangpyeong. We packed much of our stuff last night as we anticipated hitting the road earlier in the day due to the distance we needed to cover today. Even now, I feel faintly homesick after leaving Yangpyeong. It is a shade of tenderness and fondness I have not yet felt in Korea. . .

This is the first time I have driven this long of a distance in Korea. I have driven shorter distances but never from one end of the country to the other. I was not nervous, but I have seen enough K dramas where freakish things happen on the road. So, I was extra mindful as my usual tendency is to daydream when driving. Once I hit the road and stopped at a first rest stop, the little nervousness I had was gone and I was all giddy. The rest stops in Korea are out of this world, if you would ask me. Most blare loud music from the bygone era, which feels a bit odd but somehow feels right. It is akin to the idea that retro is in. Best of all, it features all kinds of eateries and restaurants, some of Korea’s favorite snack items (tteokbokki, fish cakes, world-famous Korean fried chicken, fried potato chips, corn dogs of all kinds (gotta have em with ketchup, mustard, and powdered sugar), all kinds of bread and pastries, etc), and convenient stores which have other snacks as backups in case one is not satisfied with the food that the vendors are selling. To me, it is the second-best thing after the traditional outdoor markets in Korea. Whereas I have experienced the traditional markets growing up, rest stops did not exist until I left for the US. So, there is a lot of catching up to do.

Since we did not have coffee in the morning, we ordered good old Americanos only to be mightily disappointed. Something was off and it tasted like warm mild barley water to me. “Oh well,” I thought, and my Enneagram 7 instinct kicked in to save the day as I quickly shifted my attention to the rest of the day. I knew that we would stop at a few more rest stops so there was a good chance to redeem the terrible experience. We also tried the Korean street breakfast toast. The toast basically had scrambled egg, a thin slice of bacon that is see-through, lettuce, and some unidentified sweet sauce all between two pieces of soggy bread. The toast amazingly matched the disappointment of the coffee, which is rare for me. I am usually not difficult to satisfy, a trait I developed in my childhood. I could eat very mediocre food and make it look like it is the best food ever. Many have commented that I have a gift to make others want to eat whatever I am eating. We ended up stopping by two more rest stops which were a little better but not enough to save the day. Like I said, oh well. . . there is always tomorrow.

As we got closer to Namhae which lies on the central southern tip of the Korean peninsula, we could begin to see the open ocean for the first time during this trip to Korea. The region of Namhae is comprised of two large islands that resemble some sort of amoeba shapes. A couple of nights ago, I reserved an oceanfront pension that is on the quieter side of the island. Sure enough, the road to the pension was precarious, if not treacherous, as I navigated a very narrow strip of coastal embankment road with no guardrails, that is wide enough for only one car. Understandably, my wife was nervous. I did not have to look her way, for I felt the nervous vibe. One false or foolish move, you are in the water. As nervous as my wife was, I was cautiously excited but did not want to show it for this is the kind of experience one can have only in this part of the world. I told my wife not to have too high of an expectation and she believed me because of the road. Once we parked and saw the pension in front of us with nothing standing between the pension and the open sea, my wife’s nervousness melted away, and she was all smiles from ear to ear. I too cracked a smile as if to tell her I knew all along what we were in for. The host promptly knew it was us as we were the only guests for the night, as we found out later. The name of the pension is called “the house of the poet.” It turned out that the host’s older brother used to be a poet and had since retired. The host led us to a top room with an open private deck and we naturally gasped “wow.” At one point, we were lying down on the deck benches and heard only gentle ocean waves flapping on the bank and the sound of the birds. No other competing noise. Now at 8 pm, it is pitch dark and we could hear ourselves breathing and the continued ocean flapping.

My wife asked me what I thought and/or felt is the difference between Yangpyeong and Namhae. I said, “Yangpyeong feels quainter and more snuggly whereas Namhae feels more expansive and big-hearted.” Obviously, the big difference is the ocean. Both are unpretentious and generous. The soul of my childhood “knows” the generosity and geniality, it seems. We took a long walk along the ocean embankment, basking in the here and now, just the two of us. After dinner, we drove along the narrow-twisted scenic coastal shoreline road, hugging the island, and bumped into what is called the “German Village” which was established to commemorate the nurses and miners that went to Germany to work in the 1970s and 1980s. One of my aunts was a nurse that went to Germany during that time span, I recalled.

We are now back in our pension. I thought about not writing my journal today but now that I did, I am glad for it. Where was God today? God was with me in my driving and navigating the road. God was with me in silence and small talks between my wife and me. Perhaps and just perhaps God was with me when I ate the soggy toast and the mild barley water coffee. God was with me when I prayed for my sister who went to ER for her migraine headache back in the US. God was with me when I remembered the good people God has surrounded us here in Korea. God was with me in giving this tranquil pension for tonight. God was with me when I was standing and sitting. Thank you, God. You are an amazing God.

YANGPYEONG JOURNAL | WEEK 5

After today, I will only have one more full day here at Yangpyeong as we hit the road to Namhae, Yeosu, and Goheung in the southern part of Korea. While I will continue to journal daily, I will most likely post one final Yangpyeong Journal next Tuesday. Thanks for reading!

May 7, 2022 Entry

This morning was a jewel of a morning. It was a morning like what Thomas Merton called “a pure diamond, blazing with the invisible light of heaven.” Unlike the sunny and bright days leading up to today, today was supposed to be rainy and cloudy. However, the elusive rain never came, and occasional flakey clouds dotted the otherwise blue eternal sky. The morning was crisp, and the warming sun felt like God’s embrace as if to foretell what we were about to experience.

Led by my wife, we gathered on the deck, which was partially covered and partially open, evenly dividing those who wanted more sun-aided warmth and those who did not. The first exercise we did was simply to “gaze.” This exercise was something my wife learned during her spiritual direction program. Having experienced something profoundly deep, she and I talked about starting with that exercise this morning. The exercise involves pairing up with a partner (randomly selected), sitting in pairs facing each other, and gazing at each other taking turns. One person gazes first while the other may choose to look into the distance or close their eyes. Many choose to close their eyes. You do that for 3 minutes. Then, repeat the process switching roles. We then had each pair debrief their experiences of gazing and being gazed and after a few minutes, we opened the time of sharing. One person who was being gazed had a powerful encounter. He said, “While being gazed, I sensed remarkably that God was gazing me.” As he shared, others gently nodded their heads in agreement. Quiet tears began to roll on many people’s faces.

I was paired up with a young mom with a daughter. As I was gazing into her face and her closed eyes, I heard the distant voice of a girl, and I was not sure if it was her daughter’s. When the voice was heard, the young mom’s head tilted with her eyes closed, and she raised her ear as if to discern whether that was her daughter. The reaction was as instinctive as a mother could be, and I realized that she did not even know she tilted her head to listen. That happened twice. Later, the image I drew up in my mind was the image of God as a tender loving mother, tilting Her head and leaning in to listen whether Her child is calling Her. God’s reaction would be as instinctive as God’s unconditional love for God’s children.

We then segued into another kind of gazing. I asked them now to gaze into the sky, the uninhibited view of it for another 3 minutes. By then, it was the peak morning with wide open blue sky with fast moving playful clouds, orchestrating different shapes and sizes as they moved across the sky as if to tell us a story. Then without a break, I had them to write a sentence or two focusing on self-compassion. “What would you need to hear from your inner self the most right now regarding loving yourself?” was the question. Thus, another round of 3-minute silence. Perhaps because of having gazed into the stunning blue sky, the sentence I heard from God was, “Son, live as free as the sky.” With my eyes closed, I smiled and decided to cherish it by not disclosing it to others. I wanted to keep it more personal and private this time. One more short exercise was for each to examine their tears, as many shed tears, especially the unexpected kind, during the last few days together. Tears not only hold a secret of who one is but also reveal God’s messages to each of our soul. I asked each to examine also in silence for 3 minutes.

I brought everyone’s attention and had us sit in circle again to debrief as a group about the three back-to-back-to-back exercises and what their experiences were like. During the time of sharing, more tears flowed. What God spoke to each person quickly could amount to a collection of precious stones and jewels. God spoke without the shadow of a doubt through gazing into the sky, into each other, and into oneself, all clothed in silence. I realize again that it is a paradoxical truth that God speaks to us in silence and/or when we are silent. God’s presence was revealed to us through self-examination and speaking words of self-compassion to one’s battered and neglected soul. Our natural tears mixed with God’s unmistakable and unmissable presence showcased through what each precious soul captured displayed incredible and diverse array of beauty. All were mesmerized by God’s grace and transforming power.

Then the culminating exercise was for each to tell oneself something akin to “(One’s name), you are okay and I love you.” The Spirit encouraged them to modify and personalize as each saw fit while maintaining group silence in between each statement. It was such a personal and intimate time of confessing self-love while the rest simply sat in silence and agreed. Many confessed the difficulty of saying “I love you” to oneself. Saint Bernard’s wise words of “the love of self for God’s sake” feels wild and unsettling at first, but it is a mature love, going beyond the immature stage of “the love of God for one’s sake.” There was deep and holy silence between each confession and when we were all done, there was a definite sense of celebration of God’s penetrating love and compassion displayed through the spontaneous declarations of self-compassion.

During the jeweled morning, some of the things that were experienced and spoken were nothing short of mystical and contemplative breakthroughs, similar to Thomas Merton’s mystical experience penned below.

In Louisville, at the corner of Fourth and Walnut, in the center of the shopping district, I was suddenly overwhelmed with the realization that I loved all these people, that they were mine and I theirs, that we could not be alien to one another even though we were total strangers. It was like waking from a dream of separateness, of spurious self-isolation in a special world, the world of renunciation and supposed holiness.

Later, Merton continues the same day’s journal by writing, “There is no way of telling people that they are all walking around shining like the sun,” and “the gate of heaven is everywhere.” After witnessing the Sun shining on us and everyone walking around shining like the sun, I was ready to happily call it a day. After seeing the gate of heaven that is not far but really right around me all the time, I was ready to retire into the night where I could possibly dream of the heaven inside the gate!

YANGPYEONG JOURNAL

Today is our first full day at Yangpyeong. I decided to keep a journal during our one month stay here. I will select a few entries to share . . . Thanks for reading.

We are finally here. Last year, before we left Korea, we arrived at a small dream of living and running a “healing stay” outside of Seoul for people to come and visit us, for people to discover their true self. As we were not ready to drop everything back in the US to pursue the dream, we decided that we would take a small step of embracing a one-month experiment. We planned what we could by taking reflective and methodical steps to finally arrive at an Airbnb in Yangpyeong, less than an hour drive (without traffic) from Seoul but feels like a world apart from the hustle and bustle of the frantic city. This is coming from someone (yours truly) that thinks that he would gladly live in the heart of frantic and energetic (I almost said, energized) Manhattan, NY while my wife would shrivel up and die out of sheer exhaustion.

Yesterday was a very fine day to arrive, full of generosity and provision, not to mention the unusually warm spring weather. A well-respected global missions leader, who retired at the ripe age of 65, kindly and generously drove us from the heart of Seoul to Yangpyeong. Though I thought this was an extravagant gift, I welcomed it since I always enjoy my time with him. The fact that he retired at the ripe age was considered by many as an almost scandalous and befuddling act. It is one distinct reason why I respect him. After lunch and coffee at a fine bakery (Haus Bakery, in case you want to know) where people drive out from Seoul and elsewhere just to enjoy the coffee and the pastries while taking oodles of Instagram-worthy pictures of themselves and the cafe, he let us shop at Hanaro Mart for essential groceries, as we will not have a car for a few days. Speaking of a car, one mission organization graciously offered their car for us to use for the entire duration of our healing stay. The wife of the leader who drove us to Yangpyeong gave us homemade Gimjang Kimchi which is traditionally made once a year in the late fall, enough to last the whole month of our stay. I grew up in a home where we made Gimjang Kimchi religiously. I remember the salted and the washed napa cabbages as high as my young boy’s length. So, I know the effort since I have seen the fanatic effort that is required to produce enough kimchi to last the winter and beyond for a large extended family. My first meal was instant noodles with this awesome Kimchi while my wife made herself a healthy salad. How is it that Korean cucumbers, tomatoes, and carrots are so sweet? How is that Korean ramen bought in Korea tastes better than the ones in the US? I do not know.

Our Airbnb is quaint and full of retro touches and accessories, the kind of familiar retro I grew up with. After meeting the host, it made sense, as she introduced herself as a busy body and a potter. As if to prove her passion for pottery, our Airbnb is filled with attractive handmade potteries in all shapes and sizes. While smiling, she complained that there is too much work to be done for a country house, as she lives right next door. A retired transplant from Seoul, she was decked out in a straw hat, work clothes, and a towel around her neck, ready for some laborious yard work. While not loosening her smile, she told us that her husband refuses to come to Yangpyeong, because he did not want to labor in the dirt and the never-ending work. I uttered to her that I would be willing to help from time to time but regretted saying that almost right away as I sensed the busy body aura from her. But it was too late. . .

The house also features a huge yard with a vegetable garden that is fitted for springtime gardening, a fire pit, a picnic table, and a grill. Firepit invariably will call my name and our guests since one cannot easily find a firepit among city life. When asked where I could get some firewood, the owner casually pointed to the steep hillside right behind our house and told me that I could gather as many dead branches as I want. Upon scanning the month-long and beyond supply of firewood, I muttered inside, “good deal.”

 Already, my favorite place is the roofed porch which is a thoughtful and inviting extension of the house, overlooking the yard, firepit, and garden. But the better view is the valley and mountain slope of the Yangpyeong countryside spread out before me. The mountain is budding with spring green leaves that is bright yellowish-green, a color that is foreign in Southern California, occasionally dotted with bursting snow white cherry blossoms and bright fuchsia azaleas. When asked, I was told that the color starts out bright almost fluorescent green to darker green as summer approaches. The only view I would delete if I could are the power lines, ruining the pristine view of nature. But I realize without power, I cannot enjoy the modern amenities. Realizing I can’t have both, I also know this covered porch is where I will read, write, meditate, eat, and mingle with people.

Today is our first full day. I started out the morning by sitting outside on the porch and practicing 20-minutes of silence. When I awoke this morning, I noticed a kind of quiet that was foreign to me. Except for the birds, I could not hear anything else. The silence was filled with a full symphony of birds singing, crying for food, or simply starting the day. The sound of birds of some nearby and some faraway sounded like an orchestra with a full choir. Occasionally, “base” sounds of owls hooting and crows cawing punctuated by freestyle beatbox-like sound by some bird provided a feeling of small awe and wonder. I know I am not “supposed” to think or linger on my thoughts during silence, but on a morning like this, I could not help but to meander and eventually land on Jesus’ words of “lilies of the field and the birds of the air.”

After making myself a cup of hand-ground coffee and sitting on the porch, I cannot help but notice the calming and assuring sense that I am released to be here, at such a time as this. Not before. Not later. Released by our loving and supporting cherubim (our four adult children) as well as both my wife’s and my mom’s relatively good health in their late years. . . Not to mention our organizational/communal support including our faithful friends and supporters now for decades. . . Even to a practical release of the Korean government waving the mandatory quarantine requirement of what would have been 7-days being locked inside a tiny hotel room. . .

Along with the sense of release and the divine Kairos timing, there is a strong sense of divine pull. God’s appointed Kairos moment of “I am right where I am supposed to be” is a rare watershed occasion which I am savoring now. And I have a distinct feeling that this savoring will last for a while. We are being pulled not knowing where we are headed. It is as if we are floating down the river not knowing where the river will take us.